One of the underrated components of the trouser. The pant break keeps all other lower key points in perspective...
There was hardly a decibel left to cram any words in the jam packed alterations shop. I sat patiently, awaiting my turn use the fitting room. You would think that it was a fast food chain, the way people lined the walls to be served. This was no restaurant, but the rapid service was reminiscent of such. I finally catch eyes with the lead seamstress, who was taking a moment to break the monotony of 'stitch, stitch, pull' and she summons me to her station.
You need a hem, seat and waist adjustment, right?
I assumed she'd been tipped off by the receptionist. Yes ma'am, I replied. Ok, try the first pair on in here [pointing to the chamber where the magic happens].
I'd barley gotten my foot past the lining of my trousers to prepare for markings when suddenly I hear a shreiking drill sergeant style Give me a break! There was a gentleman exclaiming that he preferred a break as opposed to the straight, no-gravity hover of the pant leg above his leather oxfords. It has long been debated which was more flattering and appealing. To break or not to break? To slant, even, or not?
Let's get a quick housekeeping matter out of the way. A trouser's natural draping has several features How the creased fabric gallops down the stride is all determined by the break and what anchors it in place. There are four types, three of which are most commonly donned by the modern gentleman. There are the full break, the half break, the quarter break and of course, no break at all.
Pant Break Illustration
Over the past few decades, American men's fashion has seemingly adopted much of the European signatures in donning tailored clothing. What was once a more relaxed and a comfort fit sport has now become more pressed and precise. Formerly, the grand gathering of the threads at the intersection of the hem and sock bend, known as the full break was the norm. It's very rarely favored, nowadays....unless, of course, the wearer has not yet been enlightened of the limits above the sole. Be careful to allow yourself maneuvering coverage, such for sitting and standing. It makes for a smoother transition betwixt the two. Rules to remember:
Less is more: Keep the excess baggage to a minimum [an entendre of sorts]. The less material at the break, the better visible your oxford or loafer are to be admired by onlookers.
Be consistent: If your trousers are cuffed, which likely means you're wearing pleats, be sure that there is enough hemming to restrain the "flyaway" and reduce drag.
**No hem should be lower than the point where the sole of a shoe meets the leather upper. Pull up your ankles...
With many stylish gents engaging in sock wars, the most popular break is no break at all. Of course, this depends on the physique and stature of its influencer. It is imperative that you choose your break wisely. Spend some time with a tailor and learn what works best for you. [Thank me later] Always remember it's about scale, balance and the delivery. Details matter. Look Sharp!
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